Walking Safari

Before long we were off the main roads, into the dry, dusty and much more barren Laikipia district of the rift valley. This is the home of Massai, Samburu, acacia trees, cattle and thorny boma's. We had come  for a walking safari.

As we drove into camp, some of our guides were waiting for us. They welcomed us, unloaded our goods and bid farewell to the Land Rover.  There would be no more automobiles, cell phones, electricity, ipads, etc... for a few days.

However, we were hardly roughing it. We had nice tents, a freshly dug outhouse (with portable sink!), folding chairs, mattresses, and even a shower! And the best part was, we did not have to carry and set (or take down) any of it!  We had a crew of able locals to help us.

Weston wasted no time testing our binoculars and getting to know our guides and trackers.

They quickly explained that tradition dictated if you draw your knife, you have to cut SOMETHING before you put it back. Luckily they found something harmless to slice, but Weston never asked to see the knife again.

Then it was off for a hike and some animal tracking. Our fist day we followed a sandy river bottom, chasing a large herd of elephants.

Weston (Douglas) quickly bonded with one of the Camel herders - who was also named Douglas!

Shayne used her sharp eyesight to spot large elephant foot prints and fresh dung! She preferred to take up the rear.

Weston usually took point.

We walked and walked, looking for signs, sounds and sights. It was quite exciting. The thrill of the hunt. We knew we were close.

And then we saw them in the distance.

We crept closer and closer, keeping the wind in our face.

With a small gully between us and the elephants, we squatted down to quietly watch and listen to them eat, play, and communicate.

We stayed for a long time. They were a noisy bunch. However, it felt like we were watching something intimate and private. Voyeurism - African bush style.

It was much different from a normal safari, surrounded by other cars, motors running, cameras clicking, radios squawking to inform other groups where the elephants are. It was special.

We kept this up over the next few days.

7 mile walks in the morning to a new camp, where we would enjoy lunch, tea time and a good rest before heading out for an evening walk.

We picked up a number of tracking tips and tricks, from identifying footprints and spoor, to listening for the excited chirps of alarmed birds.  All the while we took the opportunity to learn more about the Massai people, their traditions, beliefs and daily life routines.  I think that was my favourite part.

We saw a number of animals, but not as many as on a normal safari in South Kenya. We only saw two of the big five. But it did not seem to matter. We enjoyed the hunt, the work, and taking our time to appreciate the little things you usually miss (from ants, terminates, spiders and birds to beetles and snakes).  We were never in a rush.

Each day we would arrive at a new camp like the one above,  usually spread out under a giant Acacia tree.

Lemonjas would be waiting for us with a hot towel and a cool refreshing drink. 

The secret was the camels. 13 of them. They did all the hard work, humping the food and supplies from camp to camp.

However, most of that work was done behind the scenes. We traveled with only two camels on our daily walks.  Apparently it is hard to sneak up on wild animals with 13 camels in tow!

And of course, when anyone grew tired, they could jump on a camel to rest. We made sure the kids walked most of the morning before asking to ride. I can's say I blame them.  Camels are fun to ride.

On the first morning our guide noticed some agitated birds and went to have a look. He found a gigantic puff adder devouring a hare. Apparently this snake kills more people then any other in Africa. We saw another puff adder (dead) that same morning. This snake is heavy, solid, and a notorious ambusher. Needless to say, Rebekah was a bit paranoid the rest of the trip, as we went traipsing through the bush, usually not on any trail. This was especially true when the kids choose to run off after some bird or animal.

Maybe she felt safer with the kids up on the camels!

I did notice she liked to hang out near the guy with the gun!

Each day we awoke to the songs of birds. They seemed loudest just as the sun began to rise. 

I am sure there were a few insect chirps and noises in there as well. 

By 6 AM we were eating breakfast - usually a few courses. Oatmeal, cold cereal, fruit, eggs, muffins, sausages, and so on. We justified it by imagining the long walk we had ahead of us.

And then we were off. wandering in some general direction, towards the next camp. Most days we tried to scale to the highest point around, leveraging the raised vantage point to  identify where the animals might be.

Meanwhile, the main core of our crew were busily taking down the camp, and preparing to move locations.

This included hauling the heavy 'dutch oven'  that was used for most of our meals; pizza, cookies, quiche, bread, cakes.. you name it!

The cook and his staff were really quite amazing. We expected to be dining on the Massai staples of cow milk and blood.

One day, Kashini (The main tracker and gun totter!) found a special rock, that when rubbed with another rock (?), produced a black liquid. He used this to decorate the kids faces.

Then he threw them in an old dried up water hole as lion bait. Okay - not really, but they did jump down in an old water hole. These were wonderful places to look for tracks (like the unmistakable elephant foot prints on the left)

We saw many giraffe (including a heard of over 30!)

They preferred to keep a distance.

Terminates, ants and dung beetles were much easier to sneak up on .

However, we were just happy to walk, and look, and listen and learn.

This part of Kenya is dry, and every bush, tree and shrub seems to be adorned by some thorny defence.

This includes the cactus, whose purple prickly pears added much color to the landscape. The elephants seem to really enjoy this fruit, as evidenced by their seed infested poop!

At the end of each morning walk, just around noon, we would stumble into our new camp, already erected and ready. Leomonjas would greet us with wet towels to wipe away the dust and grime.

Then it was off to the the tent for some rest  or reading, as the intense equatorial sun beat down upon us. We all suffered sun burns!

One afternoon Lemonjas met us with a baby tortoise. It was so cute the kids had to keep it.

They did, and named it Lemmy. He finally escaped on our last day. Good for him (or her?) Run Lemmy, run!

They never did name the camels. Probably because they already had names.

The scenery was right out of the movies. And we noticed so much of it by going on foot.

I kept expecting to run into Daivd Attenborough.  Luckily we had our gun and trigger man ready in case that ever happened! I have heard he is grouchy.

But we did not run into anyone. It was just us.  Wandering.

This gave us lots of time to play and joke. The kids especially liked trying to hide, then jumping out and scaring the guides. Or perhaps trying to tickle them from behind with a huge vulture feather.  It never seemed to get old (to them).

Rebekah was in heaven. She loves to walk and hike right now. The solitude and wildlife were like therapy.

And then of course there was the sumptuous food, and nights by the fire, full of stories and zillions of stars overhead. With no electricity, we were usually in bed by 9, exhausted from the full day

We tried to keep the kids involved.

And for the most part they were. 

When they were not making up songs and dance routines at least. They are close to having a full Broadway show (.. "I'm Bam, I am the brave one...")

I tired the camel for a bit, but soon got off to walk. Both Rebekah and I found it more enjoyable on foot. 

The kids were pleased with that, allowing them each to have their own ride!

On one of the last days, we received word that a pride of 10 lions was in the area we would be walking through.

As the signs became more and more clear that we were closing in on them, an air of danger and suspense began to hover over us.

The brush was thick, and the cats were trying to hide... moving to new locations each time we drew near.

But finally, we snuck up on them. In fact, we startled one, who let out a roar before crashing through the prickly shrubs in the other direction. Unfortunately, it all happened so fast, and was so intense, I did not get any pictures. I was too involved in the moment. But Weston decided to pose for us instead.

The camels took a long rest and dust bath after that day.  Just a few weeks before we arrived, our guides' best camel was attacked and eaten by lions. Hazard of the job I suppose.

That night we camped by a river, next to a resident male hippo. The guides insisted on chasing him into the water? Not sure why?  They seem more dangerous in the water.

There were always up for something.

They even agreed to teach us how to make fire using sticks and elephant dung.

It was  not easy, and took a lot of work.

But they got there eventually.

They also  assured me that any dung would work in a pinch - even cow dung.  I thought that was useful to know, as elephant dung is hard to come by in many places. And you don't want to have to shlep around elephant dung everywhere you go.

I think airport security has a policy against that....

After all that work, we rested again and waited for tea time. Resting is also hard work!

Especially for busy kids. So the guides made them each a bow and arrow. What a thoughtful gift. I know airpot security has a policy against that one.

But it was fun while it lasted.

We truly enjoyed both the Fauna and the Flora!

On our last night we visited the village of our tracker. It was just a few huts inside a large Boma. 

But there were a lot of children running around.

Our kids were a bit nervous at first, but that apprehension soon disappeared.

It helped that we came prepared with a game of Duck, Duck Goose (or Sheep, Sheep, Goat in our case. Not a lot of ducks around this area)

Our kids looked so big and old?

But they were good sports and had a great time.

Then they played a few local games. I have no idea what they were called.

But there was a lot of chasing, and falling, and tagging...

and running and rolling in the dust and dirt!

It came as no surprise that Weston was the dirtiest when all was said and done.

The kids had brought a number of their gently used clothes, books and toys, with them to Kenya. They decided this was a good place to part with them.

This had been a contentious and unpopular idea when first proposed to the children back in Ireland.  How would they live without their toys? However when we left the village Shayne told me she wished she had brought more things to give away to her new friends.

In return the kids showed Wes and Shayne how to milk a goat. It was much more difficult then it looked.

Even Rebekah had a go.  Also unsuccessful.  Maybe she was still full from the two day old goats milk she had just enjoyed straight from a room temperature gourd. What a trooper. She took a bullet for us on that one. (We only had the smallest of sips - leaving her with a full cup!)

We taught them a few more tricks, and played a few more games. 

We showed them some pictures of themselves (always a big hit)

And then Shayne helped sort out the baby goats from the herd. She had to put them in a separate enclosure for the night. She loved it!

It was a really wonderful and sweet experience.  A highlight. We wished we could have gone back again.  All of us.

And to top it off, we found a sweet little hedgehog on the way home. They called it Spike. They love to name things! He (or she) was especially shy!

And then.. before we were ready, our trip was over. We savoured the last morning and the last fire.

We gathered our friends for goodbyes and photos.

Weston was given the nickname 'Kikuyu' for his bargaining and business skills.

A few more hugs and handshakes...

And we were back inside a car, rambling over the bumpy dusty roads, and crossing muddy rivers, back toward civilisation and our flight to Europe. Believe it or not, we all commented on how strange it was to be back in a car.

We saw a few more of our favourite animals along the way. Like the Dik Dik.

And gazelle.

And just like that - it was over. Back to the modern world (okay, semi-modern world?)

We wondered what our friends were doing. Most likely breaking camp and getting ready for the march back home.

What a truly grand and memorable experience. It certainly ranked high in our books!

Kenya

For the recent spring break, I had some work in Kenya. Since visiting South Africa, Rebekah has been suggesting we go on a proper safari. 

So we boarded a KLM flight for the 97 hour flight (at least it felt like that) to Kenya. For the first few days, I was busy day and night. So Rebekah was left on her own to explore the city and entertain the kids. Harder said then done.  

She ended up finding a local taxi driver who offered to show her around. Being Rebekah, she suggested he invite his family (when she found out he had a daughter around the same age as our kids).  So the Taxi driver enlisted his niece Charters (age 14) to get on a bus and bring his daughter from home Vivian (age 9) who was out of school for their summer holidays. Then he drove them around to a few favourite tourist spots (Rebekah's treat).

One location was an Elephant orphanage. Lots of babies. Lots of tourists. Lots of red African soil to stain shoes and clothes.

Then it was off to a Giraffe house. I think that is what it was called. Or maybe an enclosure, or mansion?  I guess I am not sure where Giraffes live.  I only know they sleep 30 minutes a day (according to the kids).  So why do they need a house?

Even Rebekah got involved here. I wonder who took the picture?

The next stop was a small zoo. I think all of these animals were orphans as well?  Kenya seems to be a rough place for animal children.

For some reason, the twins were especially fond of the tortoises. In fact they were so busy playing with them, they completely forgot to read  (and obey) the 'Do not pick up the animals sign".

Not even the baby tortoise were safe. I think he was trying to tell Shayne to put him down before he got angry and did something he would later regret!

To top it all off, the kids found an old, dangerous, rusty edged, tetanus encrusted amusement park. Rebekah let them pick one ride. They choose some type of motor driven swing. Weston was immediately sick!

They thought it was great, and believe it or not, had the whole park to themselves.  Shocker!

They also found the name of an orphanage not too far from where we were staying and spent an afternoon playing, holding and feeding the babies and toddlers who were staying there.

That evening, I found a cuddly green chameleon. I had one just like it when I was a child in Kenya. So I took it home to show my kids. They loved it. We played with it for a few hours before it was released back into the wilds of Nairobi. 

Then it was off to bed.  Weston never quite figured out the intricacies of a mosquito net...but I suppose it was better then nothing?

Once my work was completed, we loaded up in another taxi and drove several hours north, past the equator, to Nanyuki, a town at over over 6000 feet nestled in the foothills of Mount Kenya. 

We passed several climate zones on our journey, including one particularly suitable for bananas. We stopped (or were swarmed) to buy a few. 

We passed numerous markets and stalls...

...shops and establishments.

But we had not come here to shop (aside from the bananas).

We left that to the locals who were better equipped to handle and transport all the goods.

Blue Dolphin Morning

We still try to read to our children each night. Rebekah is better at it then I am. However, Shayne and I just finished reading "Island of the Blue Dolphins". It was a book I enjoyed as a kid, and took place not far form where I grew up. After many nights envisioning island life, canoe trips, abalone, and otter, we decided we would try to Kayak to school.

We made our way down to the boat, Shayne fully dressed with her school bag packed. Weston decided to stay home, eat breakfast and drive to school with Mom. No problem. He did not read the book (plus - spoiler alert - the brother dies very early thanks to a pack of wild dogs!)

The water was calm and quiet. The low tide and exposed seaweed provided extra pungency to the salty air. We slowly made our way along the coast, past the mansions and coves. The tide was against us, which did not help!

We slowed to watch the local fishermen haul in their crates of crabs and lobster (are they still called fishermen when they don't catch fish?). A bold seal swam nearby, waiting to partake of the scraps).  While there are some dolphin that roam the area, we did not see any that morning.

And then, before we knew it we pulled into Bullock Harbor, at the base of Castle Park School. The ride took 20 minutes. The same time it takes to walk.  Shayne disembarked the boat, put on her shoes, and made sure her homework was not wet. Then she was off...

..Past the blooming Gorse bushes, bursting with yellow, up the hill and into school. 30 minutes early; just like she prefers. 

We both agreed that it was a great morning, and a fitting tribute to our book and night reading together. I am lucky to have such a warm and thoughtful daughter!

Tid Bits

It has been a bit hectic over the past few weeks... lots of travel, holidays, and school events. Shaynie and I spent Saint Patricks day in Dublin.  Rebekah was in England with a friend and Weston was at a playdate. 

Unfortunately, it soon became clear that most of the other people in Dublin were college age tourists.  The majority seemed to be on Spring break from the US. So we made our way back to Dalkey, where most of the locals were watching the All-Irish hurling championships  (not sure what other nations play that sport?)

 It was all Shayne's idea!

 The kids both performed in their annual class plays. It is amazing how many lines these children can memorize!

 It makes me wonder why it is so difficult for them to remember to bring their jackets home from school or brush their teeth?

 Then it was off to London as a family. Weston stopped to take a photo with his favourite soccer player.

 We spend two days at the London Temple. The weather was great. Spring is in the air.

 The kids were bored, and not sure how to handle themselves, since we banned ipads... We tried to introduce them to nature and the real world. It went okay.

When Weston saw an electronic device again on the plane home, he almost hyperventilated. luckily they provide oxygen on board (in the event of an emergency...)

Some things never change

A few weeks ago, we went for a family kayak adventure. It was low tide. As we made our way down to the water, Shaynie spotted a strange sight. It was a stranded Octopus. We have never seen that before in all of our time by the water.  

The kids made there way over to the poor mollusk.  Weston wanted nothing to do with it, and kept his distance. Shaynie on the other hand, gentled touch the creature, to make sure it was still alive. It was!  So she gently pried it from the rock, literally pulling each leg up as it tried to clink and suction to safety.

Then she walked down to the sea and placed it in the cold water. In a flash, the octopus was gone, zooming into the deep. Only Shaynie was left, with a big smile of satisfaction on her face. Another animal saved. Some things never change.